From the sea-level streets of Kotor Old Town, look up and you will see a road etched into the cliff face above the city — a thin grey line switching back and forth up the mountain. That is the serpentine to Lovćen, and driving it is one of the most memorable experiences Montenegro has to offer. In less than 10 km of road, you climb from the edge of the bay to over 1,000 metres, with the entire Bay of Kotor spread out below you. At the top, Lovćen National Park and the Mausoleum of Njegoš await at 1,660 metres.
Distances & Drive Times
The Serpentine Road
The road from Kotor to Lovćen climbs via 25 hairpin bends over roughly 8 km of mountain road. It is fully paved, well-maintained, and perfectly manageable in any standard rental car — but it is not for nervous drivers or passengers with a fear of heights. The bends are tight, there is occasional oncoming traffic, and the drops off the edge are significant.
A few practical notes before you set off:
- Take your time. There is no reason to rush — the road is narrow and the views at every bend reward stopping.
- Use the horn before blind corners — it is standard practice on this road and other drivers expect it.
- In summer, buses and tour vehicles also use the road. If you meet one, one car will need to reverse to a passing point — be patient.
- The road is open year-round but can be icy or snow-covered in winter (December–February). Check conditions before going outside summer.
- A standard 2WD car is fine in summer. In winter or early spring, snow chains or a 4x4 may be needed above 1,000 m.
Approximately two-thirds of the way up, there is a wide pull-off on the right with an unobstructed view back down over the Bay of Kotor. This is the best single photo stop on the road — don't miss it. The entire bay, Kotor, Tivat, and the Verige strait are visible from here on a clear day.
Stop: Njeguši Village
About halfway up the mountain, the road passes through Njeguši — a small village that is famous throughout Montenegro for two things: its smoked prosciutto (pršut) and its hard sheep's cheese. These are not tourist novelties; Njeguši pršut is a protected regional product and genuinely one of the best cured meats in the Balkans.
Several family-run stalls and small restaurants along the road sell prosciutto, cheese, and local brandy (rakija). Stop for 20–30 minutes, buy something to eat on the mountain, and continue up. Njeguši is also the birthplace of the Petrović-Njegoš dynasty — Montenegro's ruling family for two centuries — which makes the mausoleum at the summit feel more significant when you know the connection.
The Mausoleum of Njegoš
At the summit of Jezerski Vrh (1,660 m) sits the Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš — Montenegro's most revered monument. Njegoš was a poet, philosopher, and ruler of Montenegro in the nineteenth century, and the mausoleum built by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is one of the finest pieces of monumental architecture in the former Yugoslavia.
From the parking area at the top, 461 steps lead up to the mausoleum entrance. The climb takes about 20 minutes. Entry costs a few euros. Inside, a giant golden mosaic and the tomb itself are understated and powerful. But the real reason to make the climb is the view: on a clear day you can see the entire Bay of Kotor, the Adriatic coast from Budva to Herceg Novi, and on exceptionally clear days, the Italian coast across the sea.
- Opening hours: approximately 9am–6pm in summer (check locally as hours change seasonally).
- Entry fee: around €3–5 per person.
- The steps to the top are steep — wear comfortable shoes.
- Bring a layer — the summit is noticeably cooler than sea level, even in summer.
Best Time to Drive Lovćen
May, June, and September are ideal. The road is clear, the air is cool at the summit, and there are fewer tour buses than in July and August. Early morning visits give the best light for photos of the bay far below.
July and August work too — just expect company at the summit car park and on the serpentine bends. Going up early (before 9am) or late afternoon (after 4pm) significantly reduces congestion on the road.